A Clockwork Memory: Cinematic watches that defined an era

Some watches tell more than just time

BY ELLIOT TAN

Cinema and watches have long shared a fascinating relationship. Much like watches, films are timekeepers in their own right, capturing the style, cultural mood, and sentiments of the times. Both serve as markers of an era—one through storytelling, the other through craftsmanship. But can a watch, in its design and function, encapsulate an entire period in cinema? From the tech-driven futurism of the ’80s to the modern minimalism of the 2010s, these are the watches that did more than simply appear on screen, but became the spirit of a time in cinema.

The ’70s: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph

The TAG Heuer Monaco is a departure from what was traditional. An unconventional square case, a blue dial, and bold red accents—these design elements reflected the bold, experimental spirit of the ‘70s. Its debut in 1969 set the stage, but it was Steve McQueen’s use of the Monaco in Le Mans (1971) that cemented its cinematic legacy, making it the first chronograph watch to gain widespread recognition in a major motion picture.

In many ways, the watch’s futuristic look and rugged functionality not only echoed the freewheeling spirit of the decade but also helped define the visual language of ‘70s cinema—gritty, bold, and rebellious.

The ’80s: Seiko Quartz Chronograph 7A28-7000

When you think of the ‘80s, a few iconic blockbuster films come to mind—The Terminator, Back to the Future and Blade Runner. In a decade defined by its obsession with technology and innovation, no watch embodied that spirit quite like the Seiko Quartz Chronograph 7A28-7000—the world’s first analogue quartz chronograph with a fully mechanical movement at the time.

Its gunmetal grey steel, bold black and grey dial with orange accents, striking asymmetrical design, and bold chronograph pushers made it an instant standout. This caught the eye of James Cameron, who selected it for Sigourney Weaver’s character, Ellen Ripley, in Aliens (1986). With its rugged durability, sporty design, and seamless blend of analogue-meets-futuristic look, it’s not difficult to see why the 7A28-7000 has become a zeitgeist of 80s nostalgia.

The ’90s: Panerai Luminor Marina 5218-203A

Before streaming services pulled audiences away from theatres and CGI took over action films, all it took to pack a cinema in the ‘90s was a fearless hero, practical stunts, and plenty of explosions. Arnold Schwarzenegger did just that, arguably better than anyone. Around the mid-1990s, Schwarzenegger was gifted the Panerai Luminor Marina 5218-203A, a timepiece that charmed him so deeply that he not only adopted it as his personal watch but also featured it prominently in the 1996 action film, Eraser.

With its sturdy oversized case, rugged crown-protecting bridge, and good old-fashioned leather strap, the Luminor not only encapsulated the era’s action-hero archetype, but also contributed to the trend of oversized watches in the late 1990s.

The ’00s: OMEGA Seamaster

When Pierce Brosnan first put on an OMEGA in GoldenEye (1995), some purists saw it as a departure from tradition, questioning whether OMEGA could live up to the legacy Rolex had built. But it wasn’t until Daniel Craig donned the OMEGA Seamaster in Casino Royale (2006) and truly made it his own that the naysayers toned it down.

The classic black tone that colours the watch not only adds to its reliability but also its sophistication. Its sporty aesthetic is tied together by its rubber strap, an unfamiliar sight from the conventional bracelet we’d grown so used to seeing on 007’s wrist. This reinvention mirrored Craig’s grittier, more grounded Bond, reflecting the shift from the near-invincible action heroes of the ’90s to a more human and realistic protagonist. With a fresh bond and a handsome new watch, this cemented OMEGA’s place as the definitive Bond watch of the 21st century.

The ’10s: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

The 2010s in film can be summed up in three letters: MCU. The Marvel Cinematic Universe dominated box offices during this era, but this period also saw a rise in films exploring the concept of time—think Inception and Interstellar. At the intersection of these Venn diagrams sits Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, a watch that does more than mark the passing hours. It accounts for the day, the date, the month, even the year, all held within the confines of three registers, crowned by a moonphase at twelve o’clock.

This is the watch Benedict Cumberbatch wore as Dr. Stephen Strange in Doctor Strange (2016), the night his character’s life (and hands) were shattered. Serving as a tether to his old life, he continued to wear his smashed up Jaeger-LeCoultre, even with his cape and costume. In a decade obsessed with stripping things down to their essential forms, the watch’s clean and minimalist design ensures time remains discernible, even across the multiverse.

Illustrations by Joan Tai

This article is originally available at www.esquiresg.com